When I think of the 1980s, despite eventually becoming a big fan of Depeche Mode, the one song that initially drove me to distraction was “Just Can’t Get Enough.” The repetitive melody and relentless chorus played like an endless loop in my mind. Little did I know that years later, another obsession would strike, equally relentless but far more refined: the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, recently unveiled to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the storied watchmaker from Le Brassus.
My initial encounter with this horological marvel occurred at the Audemars Piguet House in Geneva just before the 2025 Watches and Wonders exhibition. AP has celebrated its monumental anniversary year by introducing a series of spectacular novelties, but my focus was singular: the newly released Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, available in stainless steel with a striking “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial, and a luxurious 18K sand gold variant. The steel model, priced at CHF 109,300, immediately captured my imagination with its near-perfect proportions: 41mm in diameter and an astonishingly slim 9.5mm thickness. Its sand gold counterpart, priced at CHF 130,000, possesses an equally mesmerizing presence.
The Perpetual Calendar is not a new concept, yet it remains one of watchmaking’s most revered complications. The Royal Oak, originally conceived by Gérald Genta in 1972 as a luxury sports watch, had always seemed perfect in its elegant simplicity. Integrating a perpetual calendar into such a design could have been risky, but Audemars Piguet executed this task flawlessly. In doing so, AP created a piece that transcends mere horological excellence, entering the realm of true artistic expression.
The dial itself is a masterclass in harmony and clarity. AP’s famed “Grande Tapisserie” pattern graces the dial, meticulously executed with subtle depth and texture. On the stainless steel model, the iconic blue hue harkens back to the original 1972 Royal Oak, lending a rich sense of heritage. Contrastingly, the sand gold model offers warmth and understated opulence. The dial layout features sub-dials for date, day, month, leap year indicator, week number, and astronomical moon phase—a comprehensive yet balanced array of information. Each element is carefully positioned to provide maximum readability without overwhelming the wearer.
Perhaps most impressive is the watch’s movement, Audemars Piguet’s in-house caliber 7138. This automatic movement is derived from the acclaimed 7121 base and boasts an impressive 55-hour power reserve, running at a smooth 28,800 vibrations per hour. The caliber is not merely functional; it is a symphony of 423 meticulously crafted components, including 41 jewels, seamlessly operating within a 4.1mm-thick mechanism. The exquisite craftsmanship is evident through the sapphire crystal case back, allowing enthusiasts and collectors to appreciate the extraordinary detail and precision of AP’s watchmaking artistry.
What sets this watch apart is the ingenious crown-operated system designed to simplify complex calendar adjustments. The patented four-position crown mechanism is both intuitive and technically sophisticated. In the first position, winding the crown clockwise charges the automatic movement. Advancing to the second position, clockwise turns adjust the date, while counterclockwise adjustments control the month and leap year indicators. Pulling the crown to the third position allows for bidirectional time setting, a rare convenience in perpetual calendar watches. Finally, the crown can be positioned into a unique intermediate setting, cleverly designated as position 2’, enabling easy adjustments to day, week, and moon phase indicators through a series of intricate gears and levers. Experiencing this function firsthand is an unparalleled pleasure, highlighting AP’s remarkable innovation.
The design of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar extends seamlessly to its integrated bracelet, featuring meticulously brushed and polished accents. The octagonal bezel with distinctive white gold screws encapsulates the robust yet refined aesthetic that has defined the Royal Oak since its inception. Comfort and style harmoniously converge, ensuring the watch feels as spectacular on the wrist as it appears visually.
For many watch enthusiasts, the concept of an “exit watch”—the ultimate piece that ends the endless search for horological perfection—is more a philosophical notion than reality. Yet, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar makes a compelling case for achieving exactly this status. Wearing this watch instills a profound sense of satisfaction and tranquility. Its beauty, craftsmanship, and complexity coalesce into an object that embodies both human ingenuity and artistic sensibility.
Admittedly, the substantial price point of this masterpiece is a significant consideration. However, considering its technical sophistication, artistic execution, and timeless allure, the investment begins to justify itself, particularly for those who view horology as both passion and legacy. The AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is more than a watch; it is a life companion and an heirloom.
In closing, my encounter with the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar has been nothing short of transformative. It resonates deeply, embedding itself in my consciousness with a persistence reminiscent of that Depeche Mode song from decades ago—but far more welcome. For watch lovers, collectors, or anyone who appreciates the pinnacle of mechanical sophistication, Audemars Piguet’s latest offering is not merely desirable—it is essential.
Indeed, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar has haunted me in the most delightful way imaginable, prompting further exploration and contemplation. I plan to explore deeper insights into this extraordinary timepiece, including the philosophical elements of watch collecting and ownership, in future writings. For now, suffice it to say that this Audemars Piguet is more than a watch—it is an enduring obsession and an exquisite testament to human achievement.
If you find yourself similarly intrigued, I urge you to experience the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar firsthand at your nearest Audemars Piguet boutique. You, too, may discover that once you start exploring its intricacies, you simply can’t get enough.
